One primary power switch for everything??
Answers: There is a system send for X10 that can remotely control a number of outlets. You could own all your devices controlled by equal code so you could push one button on the remote to turn them all on at like peas in a pod time. See the link below.
Current Sensing Slave Power Switch
Switch on one part, and everything else you need turns on automatically. This can rescue the tedium of turning on partially a dozen different things, when one should be enough! This is another project created purely from necessity. In my crust, it was to switch on adjectives my computer peripherals when the PC was turned on, but I shall be building another markedly shortly to do the same near my Hi-Fi equipment.
When a system consists of a number of components, near is the ritual of ... switch on the preamp, power amp(s), subwoofer, CD player, and I don`t know a crossover or equaliser. It's not hard, but it is boring! Then, one must remember to switch everything off again - this is not other easy after a nice long listen session, beautifully accompany by a lovely Cabernet Shiraz that was a short time ago pleading to be demolished :-)
No longer must you suffer so. When a load current is sensed from the "master" element, this circuit will automatically switch on everything connected to the "slave" mains output. The merely thing you have need of to do now is turn on the preamp (for example), and adjectives the other units 'sproing' into life span, and equally, gracefully fall asleep again when the preamp is turned stale.
WARNING: This circuit is directly connected to and controls household mains voltages, and must be built next to extreme care to ensure the safekeeping of you and your loved ones. All mains electric wiring must be segregated from low voltage electrics, and in copious countries, mains electrics must be performed solitary by suitably qualified persons.
Please ensure that you heed the above preventive. One small mistake could mean the running out of you (or someone else!). I have colour coded the electric wiring in the diagrams (according to the International standards) so that the D is easily recognised. Never use workaday hook up wire for D voltage connections, and ensure that all solder joint are secure back soldering and are insulated against accidental contact.
NOTES:
This project is not intended for beginners, or anyone who is not completely comfortable beside mains electrics. It is potentially lethal if you variety a mistake. Never work on the circuit with power applied.
The alive ("hot") lead is Brown, and indeterminate is Blue. Earth is Green/Yellow
U.S. readers will most plausible use black (active or "hot") and white (neutral) wiring. Although lots new lead are now using the International standard, at hand will still be many that use the ripened US standard.
This project is an updated version of that shown surrounded by Project 40, and is recommended over the original. The previous circuit will (does) work, but this is a better and more flexible unit.
Description
The heart of the circuit is TR1, a completely monotonous small low output voltage transformer. In this case, it is connected surrounded by reverse, and used as a current transformer. A power resistor shunts a good proportion of the current away from the transformer, since most small transformers own an excessively high lesser resistance. Never use the circuit without the shunt resistor, as the output voltage may arrive at dangerous level without it.
I used a 5VA, 240V to 18V transformer (because I have one), but anything with 9V to 15V secondaries will work in recent times as well. The resistor should be a 10W wirewound type - engineer sure that the terminals are economically insulated against contact, and keep adjectives wiring very well clear of the resistor. Under normal circumstances it will catch quite thaw out at full rated power - if you use my recommendation, maximum dissipation will be 4W at rated current. Feel free to cut the value of the resistor if highly developed currents are expected, or ...
The resistor may also be reduced if a lower secondary voltage transformer is used. Remember that the transformer is immediately a step-up unit - the small voltage across R1 is stepped up by the turns ratio of the transformer. A voltage of 1V across the lower winding will create a much difficult voltage on the "primary", so some care is needed.
220 - 240V Operation 110V Operation
TR1 12V lower
220-240V primary TR1 6V Secondary
110V primary
R1 1 Ohm R1 0.5 Ohm
With the values shown above, the maximum load current of the master section should be limited to more or less 2A (4A for 110V), and this will be more than enough for most preamps, computers, etc. If the master part draws more than this, reduce the utility of R1 to obtain a maximum voltage of 2V RMS at full nouns. In theory, this will endow with an RMS voltage of about 30V on the primary, but within reality it will be typically somewhat smaller amount than this. It is a good opinion to check the actual voltage obtained from the transformer. If it exceeds roughly 30V, then lessen the value of R1 appropriately.
VR1 is used to set the sensitivity of the circuit. This may not be needed surrounded by some cases, but is highly recommended. The sensitivity should be set to ensure that the relay(s) initiate reliably when the master unit is switched on and sour. I had to include the sensitivity control contained by my unit, because the PC draws a small quiescent current (it is one of the "soft-switching" types) which be sufficient to activate the relays as soon as the front was connected. (I be not amused, since I then have to dismantle everything and modify the unit. Grrr.)
Warning: If the sensitivity is set too low, Q2 may overheat! This is because it will not be sopping, and the full voltage does not appear across the relay. The transistor will have the relay current flowing through it, and some voltage across it - this equates to power, and power medium heat. Such a condition will ensure that the transistor will go amiss at some time in the adjectives (probably after you have forgotten how you wired the circuit, and at the lowest possible convenient moment - as always).
Figure 1 shows the schematic of the main controller. Remember that TR1 is connected next to the secondary (low voltage side) surrounded by parallel with R1 as shown. The input and master connections cannot be reversed! If you accidentally rope the circuit with them interchanged, once powered on, it will stay on, next to the peripherals maintaining the current flow through TR1.
The chief relay (RL1) must be rated for the full AC nouns current and voltage that you will be controlling. Never use a relay that is not suitably rate and designed for mains switching, as any electrical breakdown of the insulation or contact failure (or both) may result. As shown, the control electronics are earthed to the D ground.
NOTE: Do not use the unit next to the control circuit "floating", as any internal insulation failure will render the section extremely unsafe, and may cause risk of electrocution or fire (or both).
RL2 is suggested, and is needed only if the 12V (nominal) DC supply is used - within my case, it operate a small preamp and headphone amp for my PC sound system. Power is supplied from an external plugpack, essentially because I had one handy (it be actually one used to power the preamp anyway). All diodes are 1N4004 or similar, and capacitors should be rated at 25V.
I suggest that you do not use a double pole relay, beside one pole for the 12V supply (instead of two relays). Although mains rate relays are quite not detrimental in this configuration, within is too much risk of mixing up the terminals, and sending virulent mains voltages out the auxiliary connector. It is also much harder to ensure that the electric wiring is properly segregated.
If the Auxiliary DC is not required, then you can pass over RL2, J2, D2 and C2, and run the unit from an internal supply (as shown surrounded by Figure 2) or from a 12V DC plug pack external supply. J1 is only needed if an external supply is used, otherwise, it too can be omitted.
A suitable internal supply is shown within Figure 2. The transformer is used in the average manner - do not bring back the two transformers mixed up when wiring! This may be surprisingly trouble-free to do, since the transformers may be identical (the use of two the same transformers is perfectly acceptable). I completely strongly recommend that both transformers be fitted with thermal fuses rather, or at the very smallest, use a fuse in the input of the auxiliary supply as shown. Small transformers are not repeatedly renowned for their build quality, and a workforce saving circuit that burns down your house is not entirely good enough.
The supply shown will give a nominal 12V, and may be low power, since the single real nouns is the relay(s). If the auxiliary DC is not required, C1 may be reduced to about 470uF (which is still better than most plug pack supplies!). Diodes are 1N4004 or similar, and C1 should be rate at 25V. A 5VA to 10VA transformer will be more than adequate.
In covering you were wondering ... Why did I choose a transformer a bit than an opto-isolator? Quite simple, really. Opto-isolators are almost ideal, but inevitability a PCB. Veroboard and similar strip boards are extremely unsafe with D voltages, and I wanted this contained by a hurry (as usual!). Never use strip board with D voltages - it is just not designed for this!
To use an isolator, I would still inevitability the power resistor, but its value would entail to be higher (more power loss, more heat) to generate satisfactory potential to operate the LED in the isolator. Or, I could use diodes to attain the voltage drop needed. These would need to be lofty current types to handle the inrush current of even relatively small "master" appliances. Either passageway, I would (and therefore so would you) requirement to obtain the needed bits, where on earth the design shown can be made with parts from the "cast-offs box" - a transformer from an old plug pack supply, a few thoroughly common diodes and transistors, and a relay or two.
There is also the problem of limiting the LED current for overloads or even everyday operation, and this can get reasonably irksome. A balancing exploit between sensitivity and ease of construction, sanctuary and cost. Overall, the method shown is safe, natural to implement, and very within acceptable limits. Since almost any mains transformer can be used (for example, I hold some 110V transformers I could have used - they are no use to me within Australia for anything else). The answer to the next ask is "because I couldn't find one immediately" :-)
Apart from anything else, most constructors will not have "odd" voltage transformers lying in the region of, so will have to use those intended for their mundane mains voltage, so it be better (for you, anyway) that I used a standard transformer for my testing. This also ensure that the insulation is rated to the actual voltage contained by your country, a not entirely unimportant consideration.
Please do not be tempt to use anything other than a D transformer, unless it is rated for the full D voltage. Typically, mains rate transformers will have an insulation breakdown voltage of 2kV or more between windings. This is your sanctuary barrier, and as such it is particularly important that it really is a block.
You might also wonder why I didn't just use the output of the transformer to power the relay (via a diode and capacitor). The answer is again really simple. If your preamp draws (for example) 400mA from the mains, with the sole purpose a small part of this go through the transformer winding. The output voltage will be considerably difficult, but at even lower current. With a carefully select relay and transformer, this is possible, but generally, the power available will be too low - hence the amplifier circuit.
In short - this is a enormously basic circuit that works capably and reliably with a widespread range of controlling appliances, and it have a nice "techo" touch to it as well.
obedient luck i made one works nice
hook them all up into like peas in a pod outlet i suppose but that wouldnt be fun whoops turned switch now i enjoy to restart everything
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